“It’s the hardest place in the world to learn to ski.”
That’s what my Norwegian guide told me about skiing to the South Pole. Antarctica is a gorgeous place, but it is totally unforgiving and there is very little room for error while out in the elements.
The temperatures this time of year were routinely –13 degrees Fahrenheit, and with the wind chill it could feel like -40 on any exposed skin. Then, there were acclimatization issues. The ice we were skiing across was around 9,000 to 10,000 feet. Antarctica has the highest average elevation of the seven continents. Ninety percent of the world’s ice and 70 percent of the world’s fresh water are found here. It can be considered a desert because the precipitation rate is equivalent to the Sahara, and yet snow and ice have been accumulating here for millions of years. At its deepest, the ice is 15,600 feet.
Functioning in this extreme cold while trying to learn a new task was very challenging. My overriding challenge was being able to see, since my glasses almost immediately fogged up with any exertion and then froze solid. My goggles too. It struck me they should make a mini ice scraper for goggles like the ones I used to use in Chicago. Is it possible to do that without scratching the lens or cracking them?
I tried making less steam by removing my nose cover but very quickly developed frostbite on my left cheek. The guide scolded me and said that area can never be exposed again. After two days, I took my glasses off altogether and just went with goggles. (Probably should have brought contacts or gotten some prescription ski goggles).
In places like Vail, it is manageable because you can wipe your lenses, etc. Here, once moving we only stopped every hour for 10 minutes to eat and drink. With my big mittens, I had minimal dexterity. So, vision was a challenge for sure.
At the break, everyone sat on their sleds. You quickly took off your goggles and set them facing the sun. There were a couple of stretches where I dialed in my breathing and enjoyed some gorgeous views. We would stop for lunch for an hour and quickly set up a tent. This was to eat and drink more and warm up a bit.
We would ski up to seven hours a day. When the final stop was shouted, I was usually elated and exhausted, but there was lifesaving work to be done. First, you need to get your tent up quickly. I couldn’t see for any close-up stuff and my fingers were usually numb, so I was very little help. I fumbled the best I could and offered to help where I could. Shoveling snow to secure the tent was a menial task that didn’t require much vision or dexterity. I had wonderful sentimental flashbacks of shoveling the driveway with my dad and brother, knowing mom would have Swiss-Miss hot chocolate with baby marshmallows waiting for us.
In the polar regions, up to four hours a day are spent melting ice to make water for drinking and for rehydrating our meals. I learned how to fire up the stove and make water. I think when I get back, I’m having an instant boiling water dispenser placed in my kitchen.
I never really got much training on how to ski efficiently, but a number of folks went very much out of their way to help me. A shout out to Seb, who skied the Last Degree (a trek across 60 nautical miles of the Antarctic plateau to the most southerly point on Earth) solo and spent some time at the South Pole showing me the ropes. He broke down the movements into easy-to-grasp sections. It made a difference, and I’m grateful.
Spending two nights at the South Pole was magnificent. I was in a larger heated tent, which felt like a five-star accommodation after the last week or so. I visited the ceremonial South Pole surrounded by the flags of the 12 countries that signed the original Antarctica treaty. I then walked 100 meters or so to the actual geographic South Pole marker.
Each year on Jan. 1, the American team from the Amundsen/Scott base recalibrate the exact coordinates and move the pole. It changes because the ice is slowly moving. They adorn each new year’s marker with a gorgeous ornament.
When Robert Scott arrived in 1912, he said, “The Pole. Yes, but under very different circumstances from those expected.” I really had very few preconceptions of what it would be like and so I was blown away by the magnitude of the emptiness, in awe of the early explorers who ventured down here and grateful I got a chance to visit one of the most remote and harsh places on the planet. More people summit Everest each year than visit this place.
I’ve learned a bunch out here on the ice. I still don’t like being cold, but I’m learning to survive here. I don’t think I like peeing in a bottle either or going #2 in a plastic bag, but I managed.
My appreciation of our gorgeous planet has increased. My commitment to do my part to help save it has been revived. Jiu Jitsu teaches you to be comfortable in uncomfortable situations, and I suspect part of my ability to adapt here is from training on the mats.
'There is no turnaround option'
It’s time to trade in the skis and strap on the crampons (ice cleats). I’m flying back to Union Glacier where I might get a three-minute bucket shower and some time to prep for my Mt. Vinson Expedition with Climbing the Seven Summits. Thanks to Kerstin and Laura for looking out for me. You reinforced my longstanding belief that there are truly angels walking among us.
“When I saw you wince and crumble 50 yards out of Basecamp, I gave you 0% chance of making it to the summit of Mt. Vinson.”
That was a comment from one of the climbers on our team who only shared his thoughts after we safely returned to Union Glacier. Sometimes it pays to ignore other people’s perception of you and just put one foot in front of the other.
On the tough climb up the fixed ropes, I thought of David Goggins’ description of “Rocky II,” round 14. I don’t think I took any souls that day, but it helped me to dig deep and just not go down. Perhaps my guide’s very matter-of-fact quip of “there is no turnaround option” was his way of figuratively burning the boats.
Jiu Jitsu and mentorship from Prof. Vinicius Draculino Magalhaes has taught me to push through discomfort, and my work with Mark Divine and The Unbeatable Mind team helped me develop a mindset that uses visualization, box breathing and a never-quit attitude.
It was hard not to suffer from imposter syndrome being surrounded by “real” climbers chasing the Seven Summits or the adventure grand slam.
At 6 p.m. on Christmas Day with wind chills nearing -49 degrees Fahrenheit, I briefly stood on the highest point in Antarctica. This was my seventh and final continent to visit, and it was the hardest thing I have ever done and forever changed my perspective on what is possible.
I am grateful for the team who helped me along the way and for the outstanding leadership from Antarctica Logistics and Expeditions and Climbing the Seven Summits. You have given me a glimpse into one of the harshest and most awe-inspiring landscapes on the planet. I leave a changed man committed to doing more to save our pale blue dot and inspired to continue to train and grow until the next adventure.
To borrow the famous line from Forrest Gump, “I think I’ll go home now”.
Dr. Pine’s equipment pearls from the field
- My wolverine/wolf fur ruff sewn onto my Mountain Equipment jacket was an absolute winner. It helped keep me warm even when the wind was blowing.
- The Nalgene bottle sleeves were a failure. The zippers all broke or froze, making them quite difficult to use. The neoprene ones from Forty Below were way better with fewer parts to break.
- In any case, sleeping with your water bottles in your sleeping bag is the best way to keep them from freezing. Just make sure the tops are secured. I made that mistake once.
- Marmot -40 degree sleeping bag was toasty and did the job. Just make sure you have a large enough stuff sack. One trick to help stuff better was to turn the bag inside out first.
- 8000m mittens work great, but your dexterity is severely limited. Add longer zip ties that can be grasped with mittens to all important zippers .
- Wearing your standard glasses can be quite challenging in the frigid temperatures. The solution that finally worked during the climb was using Cat 4 sunglasses that fit over my regular glasses.
- Baby wipes can be a real treasure. Always have some with you.
- My particular Black Diamond harness was next to impossible to tighten or loosen by myself in the freezing temperatures.
- My triple mountaineering boots had some pressure points, which were cured by strategically placing some bubble wrap near my ankle bones.
- Some version of hand warmers can make all the difference. I used plenty of the Hot Hands variety. The key is to open them up an hour or so before you really need them. They require oxygen to work so they are less effective at altitude.
- If you use a balaclava to keep your face warm and protected, consider cutting a larger hole for your mouth. Otherwise, you are doomed to fog up your eyewear.
- Having a long spoon makes eating your dehydrated meals way easier.
- The Garmin inReach mini worked well and allowed me to send some simple texts from the field. I’m so glad I didn’t need to push the SOS button.
- Make sure you clearly identify your pee bottle. It’s easy to confuse with your water bottles.
- Write your name on all your equipment.
Dr. Harold Pine is a professor of pediatric otolaryngology at the John Sealy School of Medicine. He is an active participant in yearly medical missions to Vietnam and the team leader for the Everest Medical Expedition.